Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve |
As a by-product of the last move, I unearthed a repository of photographs from back in the nineties when I was constantly on hiking blitzes across much of Alaska. They are slowly being added to the "Alaskana" Picasa web-album, but here's a handful of teaser shots in the meantime.
Dixie Pass/Wrangell-St. Elias |
What's funny is that while scanning and retouching these shots I realized how cool and old-school they look, since it's all the rage these days to utilize Hipstamatic app filters on photographs. My secret technique for achieving these results was from packing classic Kodak "single-use" (ie "disposable") box cameras along on my hikes. This definitely curtailed the range of conditions one could take pictures in, but as far as weight and affordability they were better than hauling around an expensive rig. Regrettably I can't seem to locate the best images from this series, but what I dug up in storage is a decent sampling from locations like the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park to the Pinnell Mountain Trail to the Bering Land Bridge National Preserve, and a few miscellaneous adventures along the way. I have truly been afforded the experiences of a lifetime on these treks, and hope you can get a sense of the insane rawness and overwhelming scale of beauty that is the Alaskan wilderness.
Wrangell-St. Elias |
Also here's a bonus article that was printed in the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner's "Outdoors" section, I believe sometime in the fall of 2000. The newspaper had been running random write-ups I did which documented some of my more favorite hike. Some others that year were from some climbs up around the Castner Glacier area, and my annual (for six consecutive seasons) Denali State Park hike across the Kesugi Ridge Trail. This particular article featured a grueling "off-season" solo traverse of the White Mountains, from the Elliott Highway (Colorado Creek) to the Steese Highway (Nome Creek).
More below the fold...
Limestone Jags/White Mountains |
WHITE MOUNTAIN
WILDERNESS
Imagine; traveling an hour north
of the second largest city of any state, trekking over eighty miles in twelve
days, and not seeing a single person. What for many that seek such an intense
wilderness experiences can only be a dream - in the Interior of Alaska we have
it right here in our backyard.
While I have plenty of experience
with long-distance solo hikes around the state; in the Brooks Range, Alaska
Range and the Wrangells for example, for years there has been an annoyingly
large blank spot on the map to explore in my own neck of the woods. And since I
prefer to hide in the cabin during the long months of winter slowly losing my mind
(a secret of success for any northern cartoonist), my options were limited to a
rare off-season, off-trail attempt this late July/early August.
With the exception of miners and
hunters nibbling around the edges, the majority of activity that takes place in
the White Mountains National Recreation Area happens during the winter. And it’s
not just to avoid charges of false advertisement that BLM conspicuously
promotes seasonal access to the area via snowmachine, mushing and skiing – it’s
for a good reason. While most outdoor enthusiasts are notoriously secretive in
protecting their favorite territory, I have no qualms about showing off what
could be ranked in the top ten most amazingly beautiful spots in Alaska. You’d
basically have to be nuts (or employed by a state agency - or both) to try
hoofing it around such terrain - and that is simply the best defense in
guaranteeing solitude.
The plan was to get dropped off
on a high ridgeline approximately mile 41 on the Elliott Highway (just past the
Grapefruit Rocks), cross Beaver Creek, work my way up along the bottom third of
the range, cut through the Limestone Gulch, then up and over Cache Mountain
pass to strike out for Mount Prindle by running ridges to the Nome Creek
camp-ground on the Steese side for pickup.
The first potential barrier to
this adventure was in finding a way over Beaver Creek on day three. Now where I
grew up hiking in the Adirondack Mountains of Upstate New York - if a map said “creek”
that implied one could usually straddle it with a foot on each side of the
bank. Up here however one discovers in this case the “creek” can also be
classified as a National Wild & Scenic River. This means it’s pretty much a
hit or miss on the water level, which can rise or fall several feet within a
matter of hours. And as far as I could see, this particular section was both
deep and wide, so I spent the night pitched on the shore psyching myself up for
the inevitable swim. But walking around a bend with the morning’s mug of tea
there was a surprise stretch of gravel bar where the water never rose above my
knees all the way across. Now of course the significance of that little victory
was shortly lost after several hours of slogging through a swamp, thoroughly
soaked, while getting dumped on by an occasional shower.
In fact, as anyone with
experience walking around the Interior will attest to, the quickest way of
reducing a human being to a primitive creature capable only of expressing the
base emotions by incoherent swearing, babbling or crying, would be to strap on
a 50lb pack and strand them in a few square miles of tussocks bordered by impenetrable
alder and willow thickets. I had to laugh at a fly-over by a couple of fighter
jets while thrashing about one particularly grueling patch - someone should
alert the Pentagon how we could bring any standing army in the world to its
knees just by luring them into one of our tundra bogs and let the mosquitoes do
the mop-up. Speaking of which - by this point in the season, like many Interior
residents, I had built up a hard-won relative indifference to bug bites
(sometimes known as giving up). This was one of those trips, however, where the
sheer biomass of the swarms began to interfere with some basic bodily
functions; for instance, learning how to breathe around mouthfuls of mosquitoes
and blackflies by straining air through your teeth is an adaptation surely
unique to Alaska.
In all probably less than a third
of my route involved any such struggles, the rest being fairly open forest and
high alpine country. It’s almost a relief exposing yourself to being hammered
by sustained winds strong enough to make a 185lb guy and a full pack lurch and
stagger around like an inebriate. Tim DuPont, part of the BLM team in this
area, agrees that this is “tough country” and any summer hiking is “definitely
a challenge, but the views are worth it.” Conditions change rapidly in any
season, at any time, and the elements can place the unprepared into a survival
situation without warning.
Arguably the crown jewel of the
White Mountains is in the middle section with an approximately five mile long
canyon called Limestone Gulch. In the mid-80’s the Bureau designated it as a “Research
Natural Area,” enacting special restrictions on access and activities in order
to preserve its unique characteristics. During this portion of the hike I was
privy to some of the most magnificent and spectacular views of incredible rock
formations I’ve ever seen anywhere. A perceptible atmosphere of stillness lay
over the valley, giving an almost reverent quality to the hours of silent
observation spent just sitting and staring. It was while traversing the eastern
ridge that the sudden onset of a huge storm inspired a quick bivouac half-way
down into the Gulch. Supposedly this region receives the highest number of
lightning strikes than anywhere else in the Interior due to its being flanked
by the Tanana, Yukon and Minto
Flats - a pretty obvious target. Huddling in a tent that uses two ten-foot long
aluminum poles while strikes and ten second thunder rolls are going off all around
you tends to make one re-prioritize your worries about any bear
encounters.
And the full spectrum of wildlife
was in evidence - lots of random caribou, herds of Dall sheep, plenty of birds
and many a moose were all sighted on this excursion. The sole run-in with a
black bear was a sow with her cub - the moment of mutual surprise thankfully
broken by her teaching the young one to, given a choice, run away. This allowed
me the comical sight of a tiny cub bouncing away behind - a cute Disney-fied
version before returning to a constant state of hyper-awareness over bumping
into the 1,000 pound carnivorous reality. I was most impressed, however, by the
unprecedented size of several enormous porcupines I came across. In hindsight,
the funniest event occurred during a visit to one of the public-use cabins
where two of these giant rodents began a border dispute under the floor lasting
the whole night. If enduring the weird, unearthly sounds (imagine Muppets on
LSD at a very high decibel) wasn’t enough, that evening I was introduced to the
sublime, ah, discomfort of my first case of Swimmer’s itch. Not that I had even
been swimming, mind you, just waded deep enough across a stream to get my
shorts wet. A wonderful evening of well-earned relaxation was ahead.
The remainder of the trip was
pretty easy hiking, and towards the end near Mount Prindle, almost as spectacularly
rewarding for views. Local artist Bill Brody has intimate knowledge of this
area, and his portrayals of the landforms that inhabit it exemplify the raw
sense of nature in its most primal state. He spoke to me of “feeling the energy
of the land” as a “singularly dramatic and powerful experience” upon viewing
the granite tors which are grouped about the region. Myself, I learned to next
time bring a different tent, as the worst weather of the trip pinned me down in
a pass for a cold, wet night of wrestling against a new surprise!) collapsible
tent . In the end I also discovered how actually quite cozy those brand-new
outhouses they built at the campground are for shelter, brewing up a hot cup of
tea and waiting for my ride home.
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